|
Seaworthy
Marine Recycler
Outboard Troubleshooting
There are 4 rules that we follow when troubleshooting your outboard
motor:
Rule # 1
Never
take anything for granted.
Rule #2
Believe
your evidence (in other words, don't repair something that appears
to be working properly).
Rule #3
If
you cannot duplicate the customers problem, STOP! Never
replace parts or do any work before you are certain where the problem
lies.
Rule # 4
Always
obey the FIRST THREE RULES.
STEP
1. PRELIMINARY CHECKS
A. |
Compression
- Rope the engine over to determine if all cylinders are
approximately equal. If a gauge is used, no more than
15 lb/sq. in. difference should be seen. |
B. |
Pull
spark plugs and crank engine with spark checker installed. |
C. |
Connect
engine to fuel tank and prime the carburetors - Listen for
sound of fuel entering float chambers. |
D. |
Pull
lowest gearcase fill screw and observe appearance of gear
oil-water, emulsion (oil and water churned up together -
milky looking), burnt, or metal in oil. Any problems,
disassemble and repair. |
DO
THESE CHECK REGARDLESS OF THE REASON THE UNIT CAME IN,
EVEN IF THE BOAT DID NOT COME IN FOR ENGINE SERVICE. THERE
IS NO POINT IN DOING ANY WORK ON THE UNIT IF IT DOES
NOT PASS THESE BASIC CHECKS. |
YOUR
NEXT STEP WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE RESULTS YOU GET FROM
THE ABOVE CHECKS. |
STEP
2. INSPECTION |
A. |
Compression:
- If
any noticeable difference is felt, remove the cylinder
head (or heads) and inspect - you may have just sold
a major overhaul. If removal of the head shows
no major problem, remove by-pass and exhaust covers. You
must be certain there is no damage.
|
B. |
Ignition:
- Troubleshoot
as per service manual.
- Remember! Your
purpose here is to test the complete system and then
to separate the components in order to isolate the one
that is faulty.
- Remember
rule #2 - You may have nothing more serious than the
incorrect spark plug.
- Don't
forget the key or stop switch (and isolation diodes on
V-4's and V-6's).
- Check
the entire system. There could be more than one
faulty component.
- Replace
only one component at a time and re-check. It could
be faulty from new.
|
C. |
Fuel
System:
- If
you followed the preliminary check, you know that you
have fuel as far as the float bowls. You do not know:
- Condition
of the fuel pump(s)
- Whether
the internal passages in the carbs are clear.
- If
the synchronization is properly set up.
- If
the reed valves are ok.
|
- Attempt
to start the engine. If it will start, isolate
the cylinder or cylinders involved and take corrective
action.
- If
the engine will not start, inject fuel via carb throat
or primer circuit and attempt to start. If engine
runs briefly, fuel system is clogged. Clean out
and re-test.
- Test
fuel pump for diaphragm leaks and pressure output. On
V-4's and V-6's, fuel system vacuum must also
be measured.
|
WITH
PRACTICE, THESE CHECKS CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN 10 TO 20 MINUTES
DEPENDING ON THE H.P. OF THE ENGINE. YOU WILL SELL
MORE SERVICE WORK AND WILL HAVE MORE CONFIDENCE. YOU
WILL AVOID WASTING TIME OR BEING CAUGHT OFF GUARD. GOOD
TROUBLESHOOTING IS THE KEY TO GOOD SERVICE. |
|
|
Check out our wide range of parts for older
model outboard engines (1985 and older). Have an older outboard that
you don't know what to do with? Bring it to us. We'll give it new
life. Need more info? Give ua a call (286-3361) or email us.
We would be happy to help! |
|
Need specific part, for a specific engine? Check
out our "Find
a Part"
page. We'll help you find what you need. |
|
We are all about outboards and outboards only.
We do not carry parts for, or service, inboard engines. Check out
our "Services" page for
more info. |
|
|
|